The Danish silversmith Georg Jensen (1866–1935) first established a worldwide reputation as a designer of flatware, hollowware, and jewelry in the arts and crafts idiom of the early twentieth century, then went on to become a foremost international designer of elegant and refined silver creations in the modernist style. His work is highly sought after today, and he is considered one of the most influential designers of the twentieth century. ... read moreIn the spirit of the Arts and Crafts movement, Jensen felt his jewelry should be affordable, so he used silver, instead of gold, and semiprecious stones like agate, amethyst, carnelian, coral, lapis and opal, rather than diamonds and precious stones. Bard has displayed some of his jewel-encrusted brooches next to chunks of the raw unpolished stones. Jensen liked to combine materials.

From the beginning, Jensen went to outside artists for new designs. In 1909, for example, he hired the avant-garde Danish painter Johan Rohde, who created what became the company’s most popular flatware pattern, the Acorn. Rohde’s jewelry designs combined lacy filigree with open spaces to emphasize the delicacy of the silver.

Jewelry designed for Jensen in the 1950’s by Vivianna Torun Bulow-Hube (whose talent Picasso promoted) is equally revolutionary. It is body jewelry, sculptured to trace the line of the neck and back.

Bent Gabrielsen’s work for the company from the 1970’s is also striking. A flat, roundish brooch he designed that is in the show looks like a silvery drop of water that has just landed in a puddle, its outline a series of irregular loops caused by hitting the surface.

Jensen’s greatest talent may have been his ability to find and nurture other talents. One of the most talented, original, and influential silversmiths of the 20th century, Georg Jensen silver designs live on today as one of the most highly sought examples of the art of fine silver.